Most homeowners do not meet termites. They meet the bill. After opening a wall for a bathroom remodel, or replacing a sticky door frame, or poking a baseboard that suddenly gives under a screwdriver, the damage shows itself. The insects that caused it prefer secrecy. They work from the inside out, hiding in soil, behind drywall, and inside sill plates. By the time habits shift — a floor feels springy, a porch post sounds hollow — the colony has been eating for months or years.
My perspective comes from crawling under houses from Phoenix to Pensacola, inspecting joists, reading moisture meters, listening for soft wood with a hammer, and explaining options around kitchen tables. Termite control is not one product, one visit, or one magic fix. It is a system of decisions that account for your soil, your foundation type, your local species, your tolerance for disturbance, your budget, and how long you plan to own the home. Good pest management weighs each factor, then designs a plan that fits both the structure and the people living in it.
Termites by behavior, not just by name
Saying “termites” is like saying “cars.” You can group them and still miss the important differences. In residential work across North America, we focus on three types, defined more by behavior than taxonomy.
Subterranean termites nest in the soil and travel to food through hidden paths. They build mud tubes up foundation walls and pier posts to keep their bodies moist. Most structural damage in the United States comes from these species, including the aggressive Formosan subterranean termite found in the Gulf Coast and parts of the Southeast. They prefer consistent moisture and will exploit plumbing leaks, poor drainage, or wood in contact with soil.
Drywood termites live entirely within the wood they eat. They do not need soil contact, and they do not build mud tubes. You find them in fascia, attic framing, window sashes, and furniture. Their calling card is frass: tiny, sand-like pellets that sift out of kick-out holes. A small colony can chew through crown molding over several years, often without any soil involvement.
Dampwood termites tend to be a coastal or high-moisture problem. They attack wood with high moisture content, often in outdoor structures or where chronic leaks go unaddressed. These colonies are less common in typical residential framing but show up in porch beams, sill areas, and crawl spaces with condensation and poor ventilation.
Understanding which group you are dealing with changes everything. A drywood problem in your attic will not respond to soil treatments. A subterranean colony under a slab will not be solved by spraying baseboards. When professional pest control starts with a precise identification, the rest of the strategy falls into place.
Where damage starts and how it spreads
Termites do not eat all wood equally. They prefer softer spring growth rings and damp areas. They find entry through gaps where two materials meet, where concrete shrank away from a plumbing penetration, where a siding course sits below grade, or where a porch addition bridged the soil to the sill.
In slab-on-grade homes, the typical entry points include cold joints, expansion joints, utility penetrations, and the slab edge behind brick veneer. In crawl space and basement homes, termites often enter around piers, through mortar joints, or via wood that touches soil — a deck ledger, stair stringers, or landscaping timbers.
Inside the structure, damage often starts in quiet, low-traffic areas: a basement window sill, a crawl space girder hanger, a garage rim joist hidden behind storage. Once established, subterranean termites branch like veins through studs and plates to reach paper-faced drywall, wood paneling, and even books. Drywood termites expand within a beam or trim piece, then swarm to colonize new sections of the home.
Telltale signs before the repair bill arrives
There is no single foolproof symptom, but a pattern raises suspicion. I teach homeowners to look during routine chore seasons, not just when something breaks. Early detection pest control Niagara Falls buffaloexterminators.com makes a repair a patch rather than a rebuild.
- Light, pencil-thin mud tubes climbing a foundation wall, interior pier, or garage slab edge Piles of small, six-sided frass pellets beneath baseboards or window sashes Paint that looks bubbled or blistered, especially near door frames and baseboards Wood that sounds hollow or papery when tapped with a screwdriver handle Spring swarms of winged reproductives near windows, with discarded wings left on sills
If you see any combination of these, pause before knocking things apart. A careful pest inspection, including moisture readings and attic or crawl space access, will save time and focus treatment where it counts.
Inspection as the foundation of control
A good pest inspection is not a quick spray-and-pray. It is slow, methodical work. In a one-story ranch on a slab, I begin outside, walking the perimeter and noting grade levels, downspout discharge, mulch depth, weep holes in brick, cracks in stucco, and any areas where siding sits too low. I probe suspicious wood with an awl, looking for springy resistance. I follow fence lines and old tree stumps, since subterranean termites will travel through root channels.
Inside, I inspect baseboards behind boxes, door frames at threshold transitions, and plumbing chases under sinks. In crawl spaces I check the sill plate, joist ends above the foundation, and any interior piers. In attics, I focus on fascia, rafter tails, and skylight framing for drywood activity. I use a moisture meter on suspect wood. Moisture above 20 percent is a red flag for subterranean activity, but low moisture does not rule it out.
Documentation matters. I mark tube locations, entry suspect points, and accessible trenching zones on a simple sketch. This drawing becomes the roadmap for any pest treatment, and it later helps with retreatments or monitoring.
Soil treatments: liquid termiticides done right
For decades, soil-applied termiticides have protected homes by creating a treated zone that termites cannot cross or survive within. The chemistry has evolved from repellents that deflected termites to non-repellents that allow workers to pass through, pick up the active ingredient, and transfer it within the colony. When applied properly, modern non-repellent products provide long-term protection, often measured in years, not months.
Properly is the operative word. On a slab foundation, that means trenching along exterior foundation walls and rodding or drilling to ensure the chemical reaches the soil adjacent to the footer. In block foundations and around porches or garages, additional drilling through slabs or masonry may be necessary to treat hidden soil zones. Around plumbing penetrations, careful injection prevents undermining and reduces the chance of termite bridge points.
Homeowners sometimes balk at drilling concrete or pavers, and I understand the hesitation. Here is the trade-off: if you skip treating a critical joint or penetration, you leave a gap, and termites only need a gap. Any reliable pest control provider should map and explain which areas require drilling, propose repair of holes with color-matched plugs or patch compounds, and specify the volume of solution per linear foot. If you do not see measured quantities in the contract — often something like 4 gallons per 10 linear feet for trenching — ask for it. Volume matters as much as the active ingredient.
Baiting systems: patience with a payoff
Subterranean termite baits changed the industry in the 1990s by adding a targeted, lower-impact tool. Stations are installed around the structure’s perimeter, typically 10 to 15 feet apart, in soil that stays consistent year-round. The bait contains a slow-acting insect growth regulator. Foraging workers feed, carry it back, and pass it through the colony. Over time, the colony fails to molt and collapses.
Baiting requires patience and a schedule. In high-pressure areas, I prefer a hybrid approach — install baits as a long-term monitoring and control tool, but also apply spot liquid treatments to active areas. Many homeowners choose baits for their low chemical footprint. Done right, baiting falls under eco friendly pest control because the active ingredient is localized in locked stations, not broadcast throughout the yard. The downside is time to impact. If you need rapid suppression around a heavily infested wall, a liquid treatment brings faster results. A professional pest control plan often blends both.
Drywood strategies: targeted injections and, when necessary, whole-structure options
Drywood termites call for surgical work. If activity is limited to a door frame, fascia board, or a few furniture pieces, localized treatment works well. Technicians drill small holes into galleries, inject a foam or dust formulation, then seal and finish. I have saved original 1920s crown molding this way by combining precise drilling, a borescope to trace galleries, and a low-expansion foam that reaches intricate channels.
When drywood activity is widespread — multiple rooms, attic framing, scattered frass across several elevations — localized work becomes whack-a-mole. Fumigation or heat treatment becomes the rational choice. Modern fumigation is tightly regulated, and reputable, licensed pest control companies follow strict safety protocols and clearing procedures. Heat treatment, which raises structural wood to lethal temperatures for several hours, avoids gas and leaves no chemical residue. It does, however, demand access and careful monitoring to ensure even heat penetration, particularly in dense timbers and insulated voids. Both methods require preparation, and both should be followed by preventive measures to keep reinfestation at bay.
Wood treatments and borate protection
Borate-based products fit well in new construction and renovations. Applied to raw framing, they diffuse into the top layer of wood and render it unpalatable. I like borate for crawl space sill plates, band joists, and rim joists during retrofits. It is a green pest control tool in the sense that borates have low mammalian toxicity and do not volatilize into indoor air. They do not fix existing subterranean colonies, and they cannot penetrate paint or stain, so prep is key. Think of borate as a guardrail, not a cure.
The moisture problem behind most termite problems
In most homes with subterranean termites, water made it easy for them. Poor drainage, clogged gutters, downspouts that discharge next to the foundation, sprinkler heads that wet siding, and mulch piled above the brick ledge all raise moisture at the critical soil-wood interface. A few low-cost corrections reduce risk dramatically.
Keep a 4 to 6 inch clearance between soil or mulch and siding or stucco. Extend downspouts 4 to 6 feet away from the foundation. Repair grading so that soil slopes away at least an inch per foot for the first 6 to 10 feet. In crawl spaces, aim for relative humidity under 60 percent, add vapor barriers over soil, and fix plumbing drips. None of these actions are glamorous. All of them cut termite pressure and make every other pest treatment more effective.
Retrofitting details that block entry
Unlike ants or roaches, termites need hidden, protected pathways. Close those paths and you raise the odds in your favor. On brick veneer homes, check that weep holes remain open, not jammed with mortar or covered by sidewalks. On stucco homes, seal at the slab edge with the proper joint material and keep grade lines visible. Around utility lines, use sleeve seals and elastomeric caulk rated for movement. Where decks meet houses, ensure ledger boards are properly flashed and not embedded in stucco. These details often straddle the line between pest control and construction. A good pest control provider will point them out, even if a carpenter must make the repair.
Safety, labeling, and the value of licensed help
Most termiticides are restricted-use products for a reason. They require personal protective equipment, specialized injection tools, and dose calculations tied to soil type and structure design. Drilling near radiant heat tubing, treating around wells, and working near storm drains all demand judgment. Licensed pest control technicians are trained for this, and insured pest control companies carry the liability if something goes wrong.
I meet plenty of capable DIY homeowners. Some even own hammer drills and are not scared to use them. My caution is simple. If you misapply a soil termiticide, you may think you have protection while leaving the easiest entry points untreated. That false security is more expensive than hiring a professional pest control service from the start. If budget is the concern, ask about phased work: treat the high-risk wall and the utility penetrations now, install baits over the next month, then finish the rest of the trenching when funds allow. Affordable pest control does not have to mean cheap pest control. It means transparent scope and measurable outcomes.
Contracts, warranties, and what they actually cover
A termite contract is not a magic shield. It is a promise to monitor, retreat if needed, and sometimes repair damage, depending on the plan. Read the fine print. Some contracts include re-treatment only, with no repair coverage. Others include limited damage repair up to a set dollar amount, often with exclusions for moisture conditions, inaccessible areas, or pre-existing damage.
Ask for these points in writing:
- A diagram of treated and monitored zones, including drilling locations and bait station map The active ingredients used, with product labels and safety data sheets Frequency of inspections, response time for emergency pest control requests, and terms for re-treatment Whether structural repairs are covered and any cap or exclusions Conditions that void the warranty, such as uncorrected moisture problems or structural changes without notice
Good pest control companies are clear on these details. Reliable pest control is as much about communication as it is about products.
When termites are not termites: look-alikes and false alarms
I have taken calls about “sawdust piles” that turned out to be frass from carpenter ants, and “mud tubes” that were old wasp nests near a sill. Winged ants often swarm alongside winged termites in spring. Ants have elbowed antennae and a pinched waist; termite swarmers have straight antennae and a cigar-shaped body. Carpenter bees bore perfectly round holes and leave coarse sawdust, not the tidy pellets of drywood termites. If you are unsure, save a sample in a zip-top bag and ask a pest control specialist for identification. Proper diagnosis is the cheapest part of pest management.
Integrating termite control into broader pest management
Termites rarely live alone. Homes with chronic moisture and landscaping tight against the foundation often host ants, roaches, and rodents. Integrated pest management, or IPM pest control, ties it all together. It starts with inspection, then emphasizes habitat modification, physical exclusion, and only then targeted chemical control. If your pest control provider also offers insect control, rodent control, and wildlife control, consider bundling services so the same technician tracks conditions across seasons. A crawl space that stays dry and sealed helps with rat control as much as termite control. Door sweeps, sealing utility penetrations, and trimming plantings reduce both roaches and termites. One system, many benefits.
What a realistic timeline looks like
Homeowners often ask how long it takes for treatments to work. With liquid termiticides applied correctly, activity near treated zones typically drops within days to weeks. Full colony impact on adjacent soil populations may take a few weeks more, depending on foraging patterns. With baiting, expect an inspection cycle of 30 to 60 days to gauge feeding, then progressive decline over subsequent months. Drywood localized treatments show results quickly in the treated piece, but follow-up checks at 30, 90, and 180 days catch any surviving pockets.
Patience should not mean passivity. Schedule follow-up inspections, keep a simple log of any frass sightings or swarmer events, and photograph anything suspicious. Home pest control that keeps records helps both you and your pest exterminator make better calls.
Green choices that still work
The phrase eco friendly pest control gets used loosely. In termite work, it means choosing methods with a lower environmental footprint without giving up efficacy. Bait systems localize actives and reduce volume. Borate treatments remain in wood rather than soil. Physical barriers, such as stainless steel mesh or graded particle barriers in new construction, block entry without chemicals. Heat treatment for drywood avoids residuals. Organic pest control is less relevant in termite work because “organic” often refers to gardening contexts, but the spirit is similar: minimize exposure, target precisely, and correct the underlying conditions.
The greenest program still fails if drainage stays poor and wood remains damp. Fixing moisture and design flaws is the first and best step in any sustainable plan.
Costs, value, and how to compare quotes
Prices vary widely by region, foundation type, and the level of infestation. As a rough range, a full-perimeter liquid treatment on a standard single-family home might run from the high hundreds to a few thousand dollars. Baiting systems often include an installation fee plus an annual service fee. Fumigation or heat treatment for drywood infestations is generally quoted per cubic foot or by structure size and can reach several thousand dollars for a whole house.
When comparing proposals, do not focus only on price. Compare the scope, map of work, product choices, and warranty. The best pest control is not always the most expensive. It is the plan that reflects your home’s details, your risk tolerance, and a provider’s willingness to stand behind their work. Local pest control knowledge also counts. Technicians who work your soil and climate every week know the patterns — which side of town sees more Formosan activity, which neighborhoods built in the 70s have plumbing penetration issues, which coastal homes hide drywood in fascia behind gutters.
What to do today, even if you are not ready to hire
I often leave homeowners with a short list they can start immediately. These actions cost little and pay off.
- Lower mulch and soil so at least 4 inches of foundation is visible around the house Extend downspouts and repair gutter leaks, then regrade soil to shed water away Replace any wood that contacts soil with concrete or metal, or create a visible gap Seal utility penetrations and cracks with appropriate materials, leaving weep holes open Move firewood and lumber stacks at least 20 feet from the house, stored off the ground
Complete these steps and any professional pest control treatment will last longer, and monitoring will be more effective because signs become easier to see.
Why some homes keep getting termites
I have seen homes treated every three to five years with recurring activity. The reason is rarely “the product failed.” More often, it is a structural or site condition that was never corrected. Examples include a negative grade on a side yard that funnels water against a slab, a raised planter that bridges the foundation, or a chronic plumbing leak under a guest bath that keeps the subfloor at 25 percent moisture. In each case, termites had a ready-made highway that bypassed the treated zone or undermined it over time. Coordinating with a contractor or handyman to correct these flaws transforms a revolving door of re-treatments into a lasting solution.
When speed matters
If you discover a swarm inside your home, or find live termites in a baseboard during a renovation, same day pest control is not about panic. It is about stabilizing the situation and preventing further spread. A quick application of a non-repellent foam into active galleries, combined with sealing or removing severely damaged sections, buys time for a comprehensive plan. Emergency pest control should be followed by a measured inspection and a complete map of action. Rushing the first step often leads to missed entry points and a partial fix.
Tying termite work to the broader service relationship
Many pest control providers offer residential pest control and commercial pest control under one roof, with programs ranging from one time pest control to monthly pest control or quarterly pest control. Termites do not need monthly attention, but seasonal visits keep eyes on the property, especially in climates with heavy pressure. If your provider is already managing ant control, roach extermination, mouse control, rat extermination, mosquito control, or wasp removal, bundle termite inspection into that rhythm. The technician learns your property’s quirks, you have one point of contact, and small issues get caught early.
For homeowners juggling multiple issues — a spider control request in fall, a flea control request after adopting a pet, a bee removal from a soffit — consolidating with a single pest control company simplifies communication and accountability. Licensed pest control and insured pest control status should be non-negotiable. Ask about training for pest control technicians and how the company approaches integrated pest management rather than blanket spraying.
The quiet habit that protects homes
The most effective tool I know is attention. Walk your property with intent twice a year. After a hard rain, check the foundation line for standing water and soil washouts. Before mulch season, measure the distance from soil to siding. Each spring, open the crawl space or attic and take five minutes with a flashlight. Keep a small notebook with dates and observations. If something looks off, call a pest control specialist for a quick look. That habit, paired with a well-chosen termite control plan, keeps your home out of the statistics and your money in your pocket.
Termites remain formidable because they are patient. They exploit the easy path and stay hidden while they do it. A strong plan works the same way, quietly raising barriers, correcting moisture, and monitoring over time. With the right mix of inspection, targeted pest treatment, and practical maintenance, the silent destroyers stay outside, and your home stays sound.